Pan Fried Cornmeal-Coated Smelts with Tartar Sauce

For Christmas, Mush gave me a book I have wanted since I saw Kathy Gunst (Down East author, food critic, and chef) on 207 making her Corn Feta Fritters. Notes From a Maine Kitchen, is full of seasonally inspired recipes and the stories that accompany them. I should begin by saying that I am not a big fan of fish. Smelts being a local and historical fish of Maine winters caused me to feel a certain obligation to give them a shot. Years ago when I started this blog and put up my families recipe of Smelts in Oil, I really wasn't feeling the love. My denial of the inevitable has been nagging me, as if my ancestors were looking down on me in scorn. Finally, I read this recipe and my interest was piqued. Now let me tell you smelt doubters - we are SOLD! 4 out of 5 of us loved them and the youngest? He was chanting for more, grabbing those suckers by the tail and eating every last bite - yes bones and all! Below is the recipe and pictures to boot. At the bottom is the tartar sauce- optional - and while not much to write home about - I do recommend it for those who are fishy about fish.

Now... where can we go fishing for those silvery gems? I see an ice auger and a nice warm shack in my future!

Ingredients

1 pound fresh smelts

1/2 cup flour

1/2 cup stone-ground or coarse yellow or white cornmeal

salt and freshly ground black pepper

about 3 tablespoons canola or safflower oil

1 lemon, cut into wedges

Better Than Tartar Sauce, optional

1 cup mayonnaise

1 small dill or half-sour pickle, finely chopped, plus 1 tablespoon of the liquid or juice from the pickle jar

1 scallion, finely chopped

1 tablespoon drained capers

juice of 1/2 large lemon, about 2 tablespoons

1 or 2 dashes hot pepper sauce

salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley

Directions

1. Lightly rinse the smelts and dry thoroughly.
To clean the smelts: using a small pair of kitchen scissors, hold the
smelt belly up in one hand with its head pointing away from you. With the scissors, open the belly by cutting from the vent to the point of the lower jaw. With the back of the thumb of the other hand, push the entrails out of the abdominal cavity in a single motion. Grasp the gills and the entrails and pull them clear of the head. If necessary, use the scissors to cut the esophagus just inside the jaw. Alternately, ask your fish store to clean the smelts for you.

Hey thanks Hannafords! Someone else did it for me!

2. Place the flour, cornmeal, salt, and pepper on a plate and lightly dredge the smelts in the mixture until coated on all sides.

3. In a large, heavy frying pan (cast iron is ideal), heat the oil over moderately high heat.It's hot enough when you add a speck of the flour mixture and it begins to sizzle. Add the smelts, a few at a time, being careful not to crowd the pan, and cook about 2 to 3 minutes on each side (don't fiddle with the fish ‹ let them cook undisturbed).
I really like that statement! :D

4. When you flip the smelts over, they should be golden brown. The timing depends on the size of the fish ‹ a smaller 5-inch smelt will only take about 2 minutes per side and a larger (around 8 or 9 inches long) fish will need to cook closer to 3 minutes per side.

5. Drain on paper towels and serve hot with lemon wedges and the Better Than Tartar Sauce, if desired.

Better Than Tartar Sauce
Makes about 1 cup

1 cup mayonnaise

1 small dill or half-sour pickle, finely chopped, plus 1 tablespoon of the liquid or juice from the pickle jar

1 scallion, finely chopped

1 tablespoon drained capers

juice of 1/2 large lemon, about 2 tablespoons

1 or 2 dashes hot pepper sauce

salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley

In a small bowl, mix all the ingredients until fully incorporated. Taste for seasoning and add more salt, pepper, or hot sauce to taste. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.